"Keshi" cultured pearls enter natural pearl trade

The Swiss Gemmological Insititute SSEF has received large quantities of saltwater pearls for certification in recent weeks. SSEF director Dr. Michael S. Krzemnicki said these pearls are generally characterised by an almost perfect appearance and are often accompanied by reports describing them as natural pearls. However, their appearance has raised doubt amongst many natural pearl dealers.

The pearls were tested with the most advanced forms of technology, including X-ray radiography, X-ray luminescence, X-ray micro tomography and radiocarbon age dating, and many were actually identified as beadless cultured pearls. Although they do not show one distinct feature that explicitly characterises them as cultured, it is a combination of internal and external structures which enable conclusive indentification of this material.

The arrival of large quantities of these new saltwater pearls, whose quality is far better than that of many natural pearls, represents a great danger to the natural pearl market. Following the sudden increase of this material on the market, the SSEF has taken a number of measures to protect the natural pearl trade. The SSEF has adapted its pearl certification policy and is collaboratively promoting transparent standards at an international level.

An important step is the use of more rigorous and specified definitions for natural and cultured pearls.

A natural pearl is a pearl which formed in a wild oyster (mussel) and is living in its natural habitat. It formed without any human intervention. Any pearl stemming from a pearl cultivation farm is a cultured pearl.

Photo courtesy of IDEX Online News.

The Israeli Diamond Industry Plans a Major JCK Showing

This year the Israeli Diamond Industry will once again have a major presence at JCK Las Vegas. The Israel Diamond Pavilion, hosted by the Israel Diamond Institute Group of Companies (IDI) will feature 25 exhibitors, with an additional 25 Israeli companies exhibiting throughout the show. The JCK Show is one of the most important annual events for the Israeli Diamond Industry since the United States is Israel’s leading market for polished diamonds, accounting for about one-half of Israel’s total polished exports.

IDI will also be sponsoring a cocktail event for existing and new clients of the Israeli Diamond Industry, in the café lounge adjacent to the pavilion on June 6 at 5 pm.

In the wake of IDI’s successful strategic marketing program “Together Works” in 2009, IDI recently launched a new campaign entitled “Responsibility is Good. Business.” This campaign advocates responsible business practices in the areas of manufacturing, marketing, customer service and credit, in order to ensure the stability of the world industry, as economies emerge from the global crisis of 2008 – 2009.

Both the Israeli Diamond Industry and the U.S. diamond market are showing definite signs of recovery. In the first quarter of 2010 Israel’s polished diamond exports grew 55% over the same period last year. During the same period polished diamond imports into the U.S. rose by 73% over the first quarter of 2009.

IDI Chairman Moti Ganz said, “We are pleased to see signs of recovery in the U.S., with diamond demand growing. Since the U.S. is our leading market, we are convinced that this will have an important positive impact on the Israeli Diamond Industry.”

IDI Managing Director Eli Avidar said, “JCK – Las Vegas is one of the most important highlights on the yearly calendar of the Israeli Diamond Industry. This is our major market and a great deal of our marketing efforts goes toward developing the Israeli industry’s ties here. That’s why we have set up IDI

TAG welcomes 2 new ambassadors

In 2010, the year of TAG Heuer’s 150th anniversary, the Swiss brand has been able to further extend its leadership in F1 by having under contract the two talents Button and Hamilton.

And for the first season F1 driver Karun Chandhok, the 26 years old Indian driver racing for Hispania F1, will wear TAG Heuer’s colors. Already associated with TAG Heuer since 2008, the partnership strengthened as Karun reached the pinnacle of motorsports. According to him, “precision and performance are the hallmarks of TAG Heuer, which I have always tried to live up to in my career. I have already worked closely with the brand on many occasions in the past; now to be made Brand Ambassador in its 150th year is a dream come true. I really look forward to working with them for both timepieces and avant-garde eyewear”, said TAG Heuer Ambassador Karun Chandhok.

Chinese driver Ho-Pin Tung has been joining TAG Heuer’s young driver team alongside Chandhok after starting at the Monaco Grand Prix on May 16. A former F1 test driver for Renault F1 and GP2 driver with Dams., he has been a fan of the brand since his professional debuts: ’My 1st ever sports watch was a TAG Heuer. I got it when I won my 1st race in Formula BMW Asia in 2003. Being now a TAG Heuer ambassador myself after having looked up at those sponsored before me or the current ones like Jenson, Lewis or Karun, is a stepping stone. I can’t wait to work closely with them in China and in Europe, participating in their events and promotions’’.

Jean-Christophe Babin, TAG Heuer’s CEO and Chairman, has underlined the importance of motor racing in the brand’s DNA: ‘’TAG Heuer philosophy is always to be associated with the best drivers, the best teams and the most prestigious events. While we had great successes with the last four F1 World Champions, we always keep an eye on young drivers, trying to help them to reach their F1 dream. With Karun and Ho-Pin, we are not only promoting and supporting young talents and raising their profile around the world, we are also creating a close relationship with India and China racing fans’ community in 2 very important markets for luxury timepieces. For example, both of them will participate in TAG Heuer’s 150th anniversary celebration and will take part in the Odyssey of Pioneers, the 1st world tour ever to be achieved in an electric car, our TAG Heuer Tesla Roadster, that will stop in May and June in Delhi, Beijing and Shanghai’’.

As stated by the CEO, discovering and nurturing young talents and bringing them to F1 is part of TAG Heuer’s comitted sponsoring partnerships. TAG Heuer discovered Lewis Hamilton in 2003 and offered him a fully branded TAG Heuer Formula Renault when he raced the British series. Since then Lewis has won consistently and climbed the podium to receive the F1 Title with a TAG Heuer chronograph on his wrist. At the end of 2008, to celebrate his World Champion title, Lewis helped design and promote a special edition of the Carrera chronograph, bearing his name and signature.

CIBJO urges Chinese industry to become a force in jewellery design

CIBJO President Gaetano Cavalieri has urged the leadership of the Chinese jewellery industry to assume a more prominent role in the market, by becoming a force in jewellery design, as well as being a major manufacturing centre and consumer market.

Dr. Cavalieri was speaking in Shenzhen on May 15, where he was a guest of honour at the inauguration of a new trade association, "China Jewellery Culture and Creation Industry." The ceremony for the establishment of the new body, which has gained wide support from industry trade associations in Mainland China, Hong Kong, Macau and Taiwan, was also attended by Bai Licheng, vice chairman of the 11th National Committee of the Chinese People's Political Consultative Conference (CPCC), chief political advisory body of the People's Republic of China, and Long Yongtu, secretary-general of the Boao Forum for Asia, the prestigious forum for leaders in government, business and academia in Asia whose goal is to promote regional economic integration.

"China has firmly established itself as a major consumer market and manufacturing centre. It now is time is assert itself as a force in jewellery design, and put its stamp on the industry, much in the same way that my colleagues in Italy have done for so long. I am confident that the new association will play a role in the injection of Chinese design and artistic perception into the international jewellery arena," Dr. Cavalieri stated.

In recognising China's development in to a significant force in the jewellery industry, Dr. Cavalieri emphasised that China now has a responsibility to others in the global jewellery sector. "It is most important to remember that we are an international market, and that what happens here in China impacts throughout the global chain of distribution, just as what happens elsewhere will have an effect on the Chinese business," he said. "In our industry, it is extremely likely that any item of jewellery represents the combined efforts of literally thousands of people living in different of the world. Every single individual who was in some way responsible for the manufacture of an item of jewellery - from the miner to the refinery worker, to the diamond cutter and the jewellery designer, the manufacturer and the retailer - a plays a critical role in the process."

"Fine jewellery, in so many ways, is the perfect blend of art, culture and business," the CIBJO president continued. "It is an international language that is understood and appreciated by people regardless of their language and background. Furthermore, it is also a tool by which whole communities can create better and healthier lives for themselves. That is our mission, and so I trust it also is the mission of the Chinese jewellery industry. Today, here in Shenzhen, on this momentous occasion, I call on the Chinese jewellery community to take an active leadership role in our international industry."

FEDERORAFI Joins RJC

The Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) has announced that the Italian association Confindustria Federorafi, the National Federation of Gold Jewellery, Silverware and Jewellery Manufacturers, has become a Member.

Joining other key national associations; Jewelers of America, the American Gem Society, the National Association of Goldsmiths, the British Jewellers Association, the international World Gold Council, the Union Française BJOP and the Danish Jewellers Association, Confindustria Federorafi adds the learning, perspective and prestige of the esteemed Italian jewellery industry to the RJC. RJC Trade Association members play a key role in the awareness-building of RJC membership. Through their strong national ties, these associations can assist their members in developing models for auditing as well as offering guidance and advice in the steps toward RJC certification. The RJC Certification System is unmatched in any other industry for the quality and breadth of its scope and standards and the integrity and transparency of its developmental process.

“Italy is a recognized leader in the European and international jewellery industry for its manufacturing of classical and contemporary designs. We are delighted to welcome such a valuable organisation as Confindustria Federorafi, the first Italian trade association to join the Council. With its 800 Italian manufacturing companies, Confindustria Federorafi is the perfect organisation to help us reach out to large and small manufacturers wishing to demonstrate solid, responsible business practices,” says Michael Rae, the RJC’s Chief Executive Officer.

“We are proud to initiate support for the RJC’s certification system with our members. Italy is known as a world leader in gold jewelry production for its outstanding design and technical skills. Precious metals jewellery made in Italy amounts to 70% of European production. Each year in Italy 150 tonnes of fine gold, 1000 tonnes of silver and four tonnes of platinum are processed. There are over 10,000 companies operating in this sector, employing 40,000 people for production. We feel that the Responsible Jewellery Council can play a pivotal role in our country,” says Antonio Zucchi, President, Confindustria Federorafi.

Kuperman Bros/OM Diamonds purchase space in International Gem Tower

Kuperman Bros, a leading diamond manufacturer and exporter with offices in NY, Israel and the Far East has purchased space in the Gem Tower. "The decision to relocate our New York office was simply good business judgment," said Udi Kuperman, President of Kuperman Bros. "The security, efficiencies and modernity in the International Gem Tower will allow us to grow our operations and better serve our clients. We are looking forward to calling it our new home."

This will be the first expansion for Ofer Mizrahi 's (OM Diamonds) New York office. In 2009, the company ranked 10th in Israel's Top 25 Polished Diamond Exporters. "When we first heard about the Gem Tower, we gave it serious consideration," said Matzy Matzliach, President of OM Diamonds. "As a global company dealing with polished diamonds, the opportunity to purchase space in the modern tower was in line with our business vision for the future. Technology has now become an integral part of our industry and given the advanced infrastructure and facilities provided, it was an obvious choice."

"The broad spectrum of companies purchasing in the Gem Tower reflects a vibrant and diverse group of businesses - all of whom have one thing in common, a vision for the future," said Extell Senior Vice President Raizy Haas. "As we prepare to exhibit at JCK and Couture in Las Vegas, we invite you to come meet with us to learn more about our offering. For those who have purchased, are considering purchasing or have simply befriended our team over the past months, please come say hello."

De Beers Releases Report to Society 2009

De Beers has long been an exponent of the positive role of business in driving Africa’s development.

The Report charts the company’s recent sustainability performance and represents the collective input of hundreds of dedicated individuals both internal and external to the Family of Companies.

At a time at which the attention of shareholders, partners, employees and communities are focused on the recovery and prosperity of the business, the report offers a clear and honest examination of the role played by the Family of Companies and associated partners in promoting sustainable development.

Hillary Clinton, US Secretary of State made the following comments when speaking at a forum with Nigerian Foreign Minister Ojo Maduekwe in Abuja, Nigeria in August:

“So for example, when you buy a diamond from De Beers, part of that money still today goes to help build and maintain roads and clean water systems in Botswana. You can drive anywhere in that country and you can see services that have been paid for by a legal framework, strong regulations, and a national consensus that the money from the earth and its riches should be spent on the people of Botswana.”

The report includes important DTC Sightholder case studies including one from “Trau Bros”, one of 11 NDTC Sightholders who work in partnership with UNAIDS and the Namibia Coalition on Aids. Also featured are the extensive corporate social investment programmes of “Bhavani Gems” and “Laxmi Diamond” in relation to their work in the provision of water resources and education respectively.

In his introduction, Nicky Oppenheimer, Chairman of De Beers, says “the restructuring exercise we undertook in 2009 has provided us with the opportunity to hardwire sustainability into our “new normal” and exploit the clear synergies that exist between running a sustainable and responsible business, and a profitable one”.

Highlights of the Report include:
• The Family of Companies achieved zero fatalities for the first time in 80 years, reflecting the implementation of numerous targeted safety measures; Our Lost Time Injury Severity Rate improved from 106.89 per 200,000 hours in 2008 to 6.52 in 2009;
• Despite a 49% reduction in diamond production, the Family of Companies was still able to pay US$3.4 billion (2008: US$6.2 billion) to stakeholders around the world;
• More than US$580 million in rough diamonds was supplied to Sightholders for manufacture in southern Africa (2008: US$1.1 billion);
• The Family of Companies disbursed a total of US$29.3 million in community social investment, including contractually mandated initiatives and in-kind contributions. This amounts to 9.2% of pre-tax profits of US$318 million and is significantly in excess of the international benchmark of 1%;
• Social Impact Assessments were carried out in Botswana for the major Cut-8 expansion project at Jwaneng mine, as well as the expansion of the Morupule coal mine;
• The Family of Companies continued to provide Anti–Retroviral Treatment to a total of 1,820 employees and their partners in Botswana, Namibia and South Africa;
• In 2009, we used 21.1 million cubic metres of new (potable and non-potable) water at our mining operations (2008: 37.2 million cubic metres) equating to at 41% reduction. Our use of reused and recycled water increased to 57% of our total water footprint.

In his introduction, Gareth Penny, CEO of De Beers, says “the last year was an exceptionally difficult one for the diamond industry. That we were able to take the steps we did to ensure the health of the business during 2009, without undermining our shared commitment to sustainability, should be a source of pride for everyone in the Family of Companies. As we look forward to capitalising on the opportunities of economic recovery we will continue to focus on finding synergies between operating sustainably, meeting the expectations of our stakeholders, and meeting our commercial goals. In doing so, we intend to exemplify our commitment to ‘live up to diamonds’.”

Notably the report articulates key challenges faced by the Kimberley Process in 2009 in dealing with alleged human rights violations associated with informal diamond mining in Zimbabwe. The Report notes, among other areas, key recommendations made by De Beers in support of a permanent Kimberley Process “secretariat”, the establishment of majority rather than consensus voting within the Kimberley Process and the inclusion of human rights language within the Kimberley Process framework.